John Adams and the Camino de Santiago

John Adams

“I have always regretted that We could not find time to make a

Pilgrimage to Saint Iago de Compostella.”

Those of you who have read David McCullough’s excellent biography of John

Adams [1] were perhaps astonished to read the recounting of Adams journey to Paris

December 1779 into January 1780, a journey that eventually finds Adams and his party

working their way overland eastward along a major length of the Camino francés. Was

Adams aware of the pilgrimage route to Santiago? What were the conditions that he

described along the way, the conditions that would have been experienced by any late

18th-century pilgrims?

In October 1779 Adams was appointed by Congress to return to France as minister with

the specific charge of negotiating treaties of peace and commerce with Great Britain.

Although this was a post that he had neither requested nor particularly desired, he

accepted. In addition to an official secretary, Adams decided to take with him his two

sons, John Quincy, aged 12, and Charles, aged 9. Adams had made the trans-Atlantic

crossing in mid-winter before and he had no illusions about the difficulties and immense

dangers of this voyage. His wife, Abigail would again remain at home. And so on

November 15, 1779 aboard the frigate Sensible he was headed eastward across the ocean

Two days out of Boston, the ship, carrying some 350 people, began to leak seriously.

First one pump was put into service and then a second and after more than three weeks

of day and night struggling to keep ahead of the water the captain put in at El Ferrol on

the northwestern coast of Spain the 8th of December, 1979. The pumps were stopped

on reaching port and in less than an hour there was seven feet of water in the hold.

Being told that even if the ship were not condemned, repairs would take at least a

month, Adams inquired about making the remainder of the journey overland. He

decided to risk the latter rather than sit in port.

So at dawn the 15th of December Adams, his two sons, his secretary, servants, and

hired Spanish guides and muleteers set off, one of the party noting that it was very

much like a scene from Don Quixote. Adams mentions in his Diary and Autobiography

that that in the time since putting ashore he had hardly slept a wink, so terrible was the

plague of fleas and bedbugs, Spain’s “innumerable Swarms of Ennemies of all repose.”

[2, p. 213] This would not be the last mention of these tiny pests. Indeed they

“persecuted me through the whole Kingdom of Spain to such a degree that I sometimes

apprehended I should never live to see France.” [2, p. 213]

After spending about 12 days getting to and in O Coruña their route passed through

Betanzos, Lugo, O Cebreiro, Astorga, Burgos and then northeasterly up to Bilbao.

- No relation to the author of this article.

The 1801 John Cary map of northern Spain showing Adams’ route (solid line) and

the modern Camino francés (blue solid and dashed line).

Shortly after getting underway Adams offers a description of the accommodations they

were afforded. Imagery like this was repeated numerous times along the route. But let’s

let Adams tell the story in his own words. From his autobiography he writes:

Monday, December 27, 1779: We travelled from Betanzos to Castillano. …The House

in Castillano where We lodged was of Stone, two Stories in height. We entered into the

Kitchen, where was no floor but the Ground and no Carpet but Straw trodden into mire

by Men, Hogs, horses and Mules. In the middle of the Kitchen was a Mound raised a

little above the Level of the Ground with Stones and Earth, on which was a fire, with

Potts, Kettles, Skillets &c. of the fashion of the Country, over it, and round about it.

There was no Chimney [so smoke] filled the room and if any of it ascended, it found no

other passage to the open Air, but through two holes drilled through the Tyles of the

roof, not perpendicularly over the fire, but at Angles of about forty five degrees. On one

side was a flew Oven, very large, black, smoaky and sooty. On the opposite Side of the

fire was a Cabbin filled with Straw where I suppose the Patron del Casa, that is, the

Master of the House, his Wife and four Chilldren, all lodged and slept together. On the

same floor or rather on the same level of Ground, with the Kitchen was the Stable.

There was indeed a Door which might have parted the Kitchen from the Stable: but this was always open,

and indeed it would have been impossible to see or breath with it shut: and the floor or

ground of the Stable, was covered with miry Straw like the Kitchen. …The Smoke

filled every part of the Kitchen, Stable, and all other parts of the House, and was so

thick that it was very difficult to see or breath. There was a flight of Steps of Stone

covered with Mud and Straw, from the Kitchen floor up into a Chamber. On the left

hand as you ascended the Stairs, was a Stage, built up about half Way from the Kitchen

floor to the Chamber floor. On this Stage was a bed of Straw and on the Straw lay, a fatting hog.

Around the Kitchen fire were arranged the Man and Woman of the House, four

Children,all the Travellers, Servants, Mulateers &c. Over the Fire was a very large

Kettle, like a Pot Ash Kettle, full of Turnips and Onions, very large and very fine

boiling for the Food off all the Family of Men and Beasts inhabiting both the Kitchen and the Stable, and the Stage. [2, p. 214]

Adams was apparently well aware of the pilgrimage to Santiago and its significance.

Tuesday, December 28, 1779: I have always regretted that We could not find time to

make a Pilgrimage to Saint Iago de Compostella. We were informed, particularly by

Mr. Lagoanere, that the Original of this Shrine and Temple of St. Iago was this. A

certain Shepherd saw a bright Light there in the night. Afterwards it was revealed to an

Archbishop that St. James was buried there. This laid the Foundation of a Church, and

they have built an Altar on the Spot where the Shepherd saw the Light. In the time of

the Moors, the People made a Vow, that if the Moors should be driven from this

Country, they would give a certain portion of the Income of their Lands to Saint James.

Moors were defeated and expelled and it was reported and believed, that Saint James

Was in the Battle and fought with a drawn Sword at the head of the Spanis[h] Troops,

On Horseback. The People, believing that they owed the Victory to the Saint, very    chearfully fulfilled their Vows by paying the Tribute.… [2, p. 217]

Adams was always the caustic, acerbic New Englander and he had little use for clergy

generally. He certainly did not spare Catholic clergy and his narrative is laden with

excoriating remarks.

Thursday, December 30, 1779: We went from Lugo to Galliego and arrived in good

Season, having made six Leagues and an half✝ from Lugo. …I saw nothing but Signs

of Poverty and misery among the People: a fertile Country not half cultivated: People

ragged and dirty: the Houses universally nothing but mire, Smoke, Soot, fleas and Lice:

nothing appeared rich but the Churches, nobody fat but the Clergy. Many of the Villages

We passed, were built with Mud filled in between joists, Nine tenths of them

uninhabited and mouldering to dust. Yet in every one of these Scenes of desolation, you

would see a  splendid Church, and here and there a rosy faced Priest in his proud

Canonicals rambling among the rubbish of the Village. [2, p. 218]

The party passes through O Cebreiro, Villafranca and Rabanal del Camino to Astorga.

Friday, December 31, 1779: We rode from Galliego to Sebrero, seven Leagues. Our

journey was more agreable this day, than usual: the Weather was remarkably fair and

dry, and the roads not so bad as We had expected. There was the grandest profusion of

wild irregular Mountains I ever saw: yet laboured and cultivated to their Summits.… [2,

p. 218]

Saturday, January 1, 1780: We arrived, from Sebrero, at Villa Franca, seven Leagues.

…The Houses had been uniformly the same, through the whole Country hitherto.

Common habitations for Men and Beasts. The same smoaky, filthy Dens. Not one

decent house had I seen, since I left Corunna. [2, p. 219]

Monday, January 3, 1780: We rode to Astorga. We passed through the Town and

Country of the Marragattoes. The Town is small and stands on a brook in a great Plain.

As We went into Astorga, We met Coaches and genteel People. [2, p. 220]

The party arrives in Astorga and Adams makes perhaps his first positive remarks about

the journey and the towns and villages they were passing through.

Tuesday, January 4, 1780: At Astorga, We found clean Beds and no fleas for the first

time since We had been in Spain. Walked twice round the Walls of the City, which are

very ancient. We saw the Road to Leon and Bayonne and the road to Madrid. There is a

pleasant Prospect of the Country from the Walls. Saw the Market of Vegetables. The

Onions and Turnips were the largest and finest I ever saw. The Cabbages, Carrots &c.

appeared very good. Saw the Markett of Fuel, which consisted of Wood, Coal, Turf and

Brush.

-1 league = 3 statute miles or about 4.8 km

We went to see the Cathedral Church which is the most magnificent I had yet seen in

Spain. [2, p. 220]

Wednesday, January 5, 1780: We rode from Astorga to Leon, Eight Leagues. This was

one great Plain, and the road through it was very fine. We saw large Herds of Cattle and

immense flocks of Sheep. The Sheep were of an handsome Size, and their fleeces of

Wool thick, long and extreamly fine. The Soil appeared to be rather thin and barren. We

passed several small Villages, the vast range of Asturias Mountains all covered with

Snow on our left hand. …Leon, which We entered in the night, had the Appearance of a

large City. [2, p. 221]

Adams attends Mass in León and attracts the attention of the Bishop, not favorably.

Thursday, January 6, 1780: We went to see the Cathedral Church at Leon which though

magnificent, is not equal to that at Astorga, if it is to that at Lugo. It was the day of the

Feast of the King and We happened to be at the celebration of High Mass. We saw the

Procession of the Bishop and of all the Canons, in rich habits of Silk, Velvet, Silver and

gold. The Bishop as he turned the Corners of the Church spred out his hand to the

People, in token of his Apostolical Benediction; and those, in token of their profound

gratitude for the heavenly Blessing prostrated themselves on their Knees as he passed.

Our Guide told Us We must do the same. But I contented myself with a Bow. The Eagle

Eye of the Bishop did not fail to observe an Upright figure amidst the Crowd of prostrate

Adorers: but no doubt perceiving in my Countenance and Air, but especially in my

dress something that was not Spanish, he concluded I was some travelling Heretick and

did not think it worth while to exert his Authority to bend my stiff Knees. His Eyes

followed me so long that I thought I saw in his Countenance a reproof like this "You are

not only a Heretick but you are not a Gentleman, for a Gentleman would have respected

the Religion of the Country and its Usages so far as to have conformed externally to a

Ceremony that cost so little." [2, p. 221]

Friday, January 7, 1780: From Mansillas We rode to San Juan Segun. [2, p. 224]

The party passes over the meseta.

Saturday, January 8, 1780: We rode from San Juan Segun to Paredise de Nava. …The

Villages all appear going to decay and crumbling to dust. Can this be the ancient

Kingdom of Leon? Nevertheless every Village has Churches and Convents enough in it,

to ruin it, and the whole Country round about it; even if they had nothing to pay to the

King, or the Landlords. But all three together Church, State and Nobility exhaust the

Labour and Spirits of the People to such a degree, that I had no Idea of the Possibility of

deeper Wretchedness. …There were in this little Village four Parish Churches and two

Convents one of Monks and one of Nuns, both of the order of St. Francis. [2, p. 224]

From Astorga to this place Paredise de Nava, the Face of the Country was a great plain,

and a striking Contrast to all the rest of the Country We had passed from Ferrol. But

there was little Appearance [of] Improvement, Industry or Cultivation. Scarcely any

Trees. No Forrest, Timber or fruit Trees. No Fences except a few Mud Walls for Sheep

folds. This night We reached Sellada el Camino. [2, p. 225]

The party arrives in Burgos and Adams is led to make further biting remarks about the

Church and the clergy.

Tuesday, January 11, 1780: We arrived at Burgos, from Sellada el Caminos, four

Leagues. We had fog, rain, and Snow all the Way, very chilly and raw. …We went out

to see the Cathedral which was ancient and very large. The whole Building was

supported by four grand Pillars the largest I ever had seen. [2, p. 225]

For more than twenty Years I had been almost continually engaged in Journeys and

Voyages and had often undergone severe Tryals, as I thought; great hardships, cold,

rain, Snow, heat, fatigue, bad rest, indifferent nourishment, want of Sleep &c. &c. &c.

But I had never experienced any Thing like this journey. If it were now left to my

Choice to perform my first Voyage to Europe with all its horrors, or this journey

through Spain, I should prefer the former. …In my whole Life my Patience was never so near being

totally exhausted. [2, p. 225]

There were some few Trades and a little Appearance of Business here; but the principal

occupation was Religion. Upon my expressing some Curiosity to [know] the Number

of Religious Houses in Burgos, which appeared to me to be enough to devour a whole

Country for an hundred miles round, our Guide went out and procured me the following

Information. [Adams then lists 33 monasteries, convents and churches.] …what an

Army of Ecclesiasticks is this for so small a Town as Burgos. [2, p. 226]

The next day Adams’ party left the present-day Camino francés route heading northeast

then north, arriving in Bilbao on Saturday, January 15, 1780. They continued on to Paris

arriving on February 9th after a journey of two months. In his first letter to Congress

upon arriving in Paris he reported that they were all “in tollerable health, after a journey

of near four hundred Leagues in the dead of Winter, through bad roads and worse

Accommodations of every kind. We lost no time more than was indispensable to restore

our health, which was several times much affected and in great danger: yet We were

more than twice as long in making the journey by Land, as We had been in crossing the

Atlantic Ocean.” [2, p. 240]

So the Camino was in 1790 certainly alive enough that John Adams was aware of its

existence. In fact about Santiago he remarks: “…there are great numbers of Pilgrims,

who visit it, every Year, from France, Spain, Italy and other parts of Europe, many of

them on foot.” [2, p. 217] And he was aware enough of its importance to have remarked

“I have always regretted that We could not find time to make a Pilgrimage to Saint Iago

de Compostella.” [2, p. 217] Also scattered throughout his account are descriptions of

conditions along the route at that time, conditions that can only be described as horrific.

Adams’ New England cynicism about clergy, Catholic clergy in particular, is more than

evident in his account. Indeed while he places the blame for the conditions that he

encounters — poverty, misery, hopelessness — on the collective shoulders of the

“Church, State and Nobility" [2, p. 224] he singles out the clergy for special

condemnation and excoriation. “People ragged and dirty: the Houses universally

nothing but mire, Smoke, Soot, fleas and Lice: nothing appeared rich but the Churches,

nobody fat but the Clergy. … in every one of these Scenes of desolation, you would see

a splendid Church, and here and there a rosy faced Priest in his proud Canonicals

rambling among the rubbish of the Village.” [2, p. 218]

For those of you with an attachment to Rabanal del Camino, you should take note that

Adams and his party passed through that village on Monday, January 3, 1780. It is

amusing to create a mental image of his entourage—a goodly number of mules, a

wagon, three calashes (a light, small-wheeled four-passenger carriage with a folding

top)—rattling down the cobblestone street of Rabanal past the 12th-century church of

Santa María de la Asunción, probably past numerous ruins of buildings and on down

the hill to head off eastward on the road toward Astorga.

In the 18th century the Hospital de San Gregorio was the pilgrim refuge in Rabanal as it

had been for many centuries. There are records of its existence in the 1720s and again

in the early 1800s. Records in 1804 and in 1832 indicate a fair number of pilgrims on

the road. [3, p. 280] This would imply that Adams would have surely encountered

numerous pilgrims during his 12 or 13 days on the route between O Cebreiro and

Burgos.

If this causes you to want to read more of Adams’ account or perhaps even his entire

diary and autobiography, fascinating reading, they are available on the Website of the

Massachusetts Historical Society. Father John also required that 12-year old John

Quincy keep a diary which is also available on this site. Please see the section “Further

Reading” below.

_____________________________________________________________________

References:

1. McCullough, David (2001). John Adams. Simon & Schuster. ISBN 0-684-81363-7.

2. Adams, John (1961). Diary and autobiography. Vol. 4. Autobiography, 1777-1780.

L.H. Butterfield, editor. Belknap Press of Harvard University Press.

3. Gitlitz, David & Linda K. Davidson (2000). The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago: The

Complete Cultural Handbook. St. Martin's Press. ISBN: 0-31225416-4.

Further Reading:

The Massachusetts Historical Society. John Adams’ autobiography:

www.masshist.org/digitaladams/aea/autobio

The Massachusetts Historical Society. John Quincy Adams’ diary:

www.masshist.org/jqadiaries

The Massachusetts Historical Society:

www.masshist.org

—Gene McCullough, November 2009

John Adams and the Camino de Santiago

John Adams - www.american pilgrims